Sichuan Birding Tour Trip Report 2024

Sichuan, China

19th May – 7th June 2024 Leader: Mike Nelson

Participants: Tory Bennett, Chandra Biggerstaff, Angie Cederlund, Matt Hale, Li and Lisa Li, and Michael Retter

After a five-year absence during pandemic restrictions, returning to China was a joy. Despite some initial hiccups due to the country's long closure to the outside world, we embraced the newly opened areas, soaking in the breathtakingly high rocky passes, conifer-clad mountain slopes, temperate forests, and expansive bamboo stands Beginning in southern Sichuan. we were greeted by an impressive array of phasianids, including Silver Pheasant, Lady Amherst’s Pheasant, and Temminck’s Tragopan, all parading magnificently before us. Our journey then took us to Wawushan, where a parrotbill extravaganza of five species awaited us, including Grey-hooded and Three-toed. We continued our travels to Wolong and Balangshan, where the elusive Chinese Monal made its appearance alongside other highlights such as Firethroat, Sichuan Forest Thrush, and Sharpe’s Rosefinch. A trek through a steep gorge rewarded us with sightings of Chinese Long-tailed Rosefinch and a spectacular Wallcreeper, before we ascended onto the Tibetan Plateau. Here, a new suite of birds greeted us, including the much-coveted Przewalski’s Pinktail offering a splendid performance. A nearby lake offered Brown-cheeked Rail, along with Tibetan Lark and Black-necked Cranes foraging on the surrounding plains. A conifer-cloaked valley added Sichuan Jays, Sukatschev’s Laughingthrushes, and several flushed Severtzov’s Grouses to our list, whilst another site provided great views of Blanford’s Rosefinch and its surrounding scrub gave us spectacular views of Siberian Rubythroat. We concluded our tour in the temperate forests, enjoying a host of warblers, including Claudia’s, Kloss’s, Sulphur-breasted, and Alstrom’s.

Our adventure began in a new birding area south of Chengdu, at Tansi Mountain. Here, the locals have set up hides amidst vast swathes of bamboo, allowing us to experience the finest Sichuan birds at close range. Over two and a half days, we encountered several juveniles and scruffy-looking Lady Amherst's and Silver Pheasants, along with our first sightings of many Chinese Bamboo Partridges. Though distant Sichuan Partridges calling from higher up the ridge eluded us, the various hides revealed a vast array of avian treasures. Artificially placed pools of water attracted the very common Buffy Laughingthrushes along with beautiful Emei Liocichla, Red-billed Leothrix (the old Peking Robin), Streak-breasted and Black- streaked Scimitar Babblers. A lone Dusky Fulvetta and several Blue-winged Minlas also splashed about with a White-bellied Robin, Chinese Babaxes, and White-browed Laughingthrushes.

Lady Amherst’s Pheasant and Emei Liocichla © Li and Lisa Li Another hide offered us exceptional pheasant viewing, with a Silver Pheasant in full white regalia emerging like a ghost from the bamboo tangle. Several young and female Lady Amherst's Pheasants joined the feeding fray, eventually overshadowed by a splendid male in full breeding plumage. His long train was so grand it was challenging to fit into the camera frame. another showstopper was the strawberry-red Temminck's Tragopan, allowing us a detailed study of his ocelli-laden plumage. This was topped off with a pair of Chinese Bamboo Partridges, enhancing our pheasant tally. Outside the hides, the surrounding bamboo provided additional delights. A well-behaved Spot-breasted Parrotbill, with his distinctive yellow bill, called and climbed tall bamboo stalks before us. Small groups of Golden Parrotbills frolicked through the understory, and we heard the insect-like song of a Brown Grasshopper Warbler, which eventually revealed itself on a branch for amazing views. Six Brown Bullfinches appeared in a tree above, and we watched as they engaged in some allopreening. We also enjoyed sightings of Black-headed Greenfinches perched down the slope, with Grey-headed and Ashy-throated Parrotbills at the bamboo's edge. A lone Yellow-throated Bunting, discovered by Matt, made for a delightful addition.

Having kicked off the tour with some spectacular pheasants and accompanying avian attractions, we moved on with great anticipation to the table top mountain of Wawushan. Closed since 2012 and known as one of China's premier birding locations, it promised to be a highlight of the tour. En route, we made a brief stop for the elusive Silver Oriole, which tantalizingly appeared and vanished before we could get a good look at it. However, our spirits were lifted by sightings of Sulphur-breasted Warbler, Long-tailed Minivet, Chinese Jungle Flycatcher, David's Fulvetta, Black-chinned Yuhina, and several flitting warblers responding to alarm sounds.

Wawushan itself was a breathtaking sight, a sea of bamboo interspersed with tall conifers and evergreens. Well-maintained pathways led us through the fog-draped, ethereal landscape, where we encountered a fine selection of warblers, including Buff-barred, Sichuan Leaf, Greenish, and Large-billed Leaf Warblers. We also added Darjeeling Woodpecker, a fleeting Fire- capped Tit, and a variety of true tits like Yellow-browed, Coal, Rufous-vented, and Green-backed. Noisy Black-faced Laughingthrushes were numerous along with some skulking Elliot's Laughingthrushes, and understory specialists such as Aberrant Bush Warbler and a very showy Spotted Grasshopper Warbler.

A standout moment was witnessing the prolonged song of a Yellowish-bellied Bush Warbler at eye level, whose oxygen- sapping, descending trill lasted over 45 seconds. Other notable sightings included Hodgson's Treecreeper, several mist- shrouded Chinese Thrushes singing in the canopy, and a solitary Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher. A singing White-browed Bush Robin was tracked down to some rhododendrons along the main track, while also adding a rather elusive Himalayan Shortwing and a far more conspicuous Golden Bush Robin. The stars of Wawushan were undoubtedly the paradoxical parrotbills. We were thrilled to observe five species, including adorable Fulvous Parrotbills, impressively large Great Parrotbill, a pair of Brown Parrotbills feeding in Rhododendron, a lone Three-toed Parrotbill feeding in a flowering tree just meters farther along, and a last-minute pair of Grey-hooded Parrotbills emerging from their bamboo home almost below us for an outrageous display, providing a fitting finale to our parrotbill encounters. The day was further highlighted by three sightings of Red Pandas, which elicited "ooohs" and "ahhhs" from our group and the throngs of Chinese tourists who had stopped to admire both us and the native mammals. As we descended from the mountaintop, we continued to add to our bird list with sightings of Necklaced Woodpecker, Claudia's and Emei Leaf Warblers, as well as Bianchi's, Marten’s, and Chestnut-crowned Warblers. A mixed flock contained Red-tailed and Blue- winged Minlas while a Himalayan Cuckoo looked on, and a Eurasian Hobby circled overhead amongst the clouds of Asian House Martins. After such a long wait, Wawushan had certainly delivered an unforgettable birding experience.

Red Panda © Mike Nelson / Birdtour Asia From the sea of bamboo at Wawushan, we journeyed to the dizzying heights of Balangshan and the forest-draped roadside of Wolong. Over two full days, we explored temperate and high-altitude forests up to montane scrub. In the lower roadside forests, we spotted our first Sichuan and Yellow-bellied Tits. The noisy flocks drew in Black-browed and Sooty Bushtits, along with striking Rufous-bellied Niltavas. In the understory, a beautifully patterned Chestnut-headed Tesia circled a woodpile, and we were also serenaded by several Chestnut Thrushes and the more accomplished Sichuan Forest Thrush, with two individuals vocally duelling from opposite sides of the road. However, these all paled in comparison to the stunning Firethroat. Its imitations and musical trills echoed around us as we caught glimpses of its fiery red throat as it moved from perch to perch. Later, we had even better views of another Firethroat as we peered down from the road above. Higher up, near the tree line in mixed scrubby cover, we located one of our main targets: a pair of Chinese Monals calling back and forth to each other. A Chinese Goral was also spotted as we scanned, while a group of Blood Pheasants fed close by to give us prolonged views. Distant White Eared Pheasants were seen high up the ridge, and a pair of Snow Pigeons landed for us to inspect. Raptors soared on thermal currents, disappearing in and out of the cloud cover as we logged Lammergeier, massive Himalayan Griffons, and a lone Golden Eagle.

Balangshan is particularly known for its rosefinches and we were not disappointed. We observed a plethora of these birds in hues ranging from pink and crimson to hepatic and red wine, among them Dark-breasted, Common, Vinaceous, Dark- rumped, and the stunning Sharpe's Rosefinches. Other finches here were several Grey-headed Bullfinches, a pair of smart Collared Grosbeaks, and a rare collection of eleven Spot-winged Grosbeaks farther down the mountain. These usually scarce birds were a welcome addition, and we were thrilled to find them feeding on local cherry trees at close range. The tiger- striped females stood out from the black and yellow males, capping off a remarkable birding experience at Balangshan.

Departing the forested slopes of Balangshan, we journeyed through the stunning gorge country, where we were treated to sightings of magnificent male Chinese Long-tailed Rosefinches and an equally splendid Wallcreeper, gliding through the river gorge below on its bright reddish-pink wings. From the stark contrasts of the steep gorges, we ascended to the conifer- lined slopes of Mengbishan, via a high pass with stunted scrub that opened up to the conifer forest below. The vista was breathtaking, with grassy slopes giving way to rocky scree and a vast valley thick with green conifers with an inviting winding road below.

Our Mengbishan adventure began with a pair of Himalayan Beautiful Rosefinches feeding in the stunted bushes and rhododendrons, and as we marvelled at them, we heard the distant ‘song’ of a Verreaux's Monal-Partridge. Seizing the opportunity, we wound our way down the road to locate the source of the call. Positioned perfectly, we soon received a response from a nearby pair. To our astonishment, the male emerged from the rhododendrons and approached us with the female in tow. Seemingly undeterred by our presence it approached so closely in fact that we switched to phone cameras for selfies as our long lenses were made redundant. Eventually, the birds returned to their rhododendron home, allowing us to focus on the Giant Laughingthrushes that had been attracted by the commotion. These beautifully patterned birds fed on the ground, providing us with delightful views before we ventured farther into the conifer forest for the rest of the afternoon and the following day.

Wawu Shan, Sichuan © Li and Lisa Li Our time in Mengbishan was filled with further remarkable sightings; showy Black Woodpeckers stood out, with one landing on a nearby tree, calling with cackles and whines. We also observed a fine selection of raptors, including a Eurasian Sparrowhawk, a chunky Eurasian Goshawk, and a Himalayan Buzzard circling above us, along with Red-billed and Yellow- billed Choughs. The conifers and high scrub were alive with warbler song, and we encountered Tickell's Leaf, Buff-barred, Sichuan Leaf, Hume's Leaf, Greenish, Claudia's Leaf, and Bianchi's Warblers. We had exceptionally close views of a Crested Tit-warbler, allowing us to admire its intricate feather details as our cameras clicked away. An unexpected Przewalski's Nuthatch called nearby and perched atop a conifer, showing off its pale face, an added bonus! Conifer crooners included several Long-tailed Thrushes and the diminutive Slaty-backed Flycatcher. We found several Himalayan Bluetails by the road, their blue and orange plumage adding splashes of colour along with various species of redstarts—Daurian, Blue-fronted, White-capped, Plumbeous, and the striking White-throated Redstart—all on display. Noisy Chinese White-browed Rosefinches were common, and we tracked down a handsome male Three-banded Rosefinch perched atop a slender fir tree. Adding to our list of fringillids were Red Crossbills and Oriental/Grey-capped Greenfinches. Mengbishan had proved to be a treasure trove of birding delights, with some spectacular sightings, making our journey through this picturesque landscape truly unforgettable.

Ascending from the conifer-draped mountain sides of Mengbishan, we wound our way up onto the vast splendour of the Tibetan Plateau. The sweeping vistas of high grassy steppe, conifer-draped valleys, palatial lakes, and snowcapped peaks were breathtaking. Our two and a half days of high-altitude birding began in stunted willows along some roadside hills, spotting Severtzov’s Tit-warblers darting among the pines. We also encountered our first Kessler's Thrushes, Azure-winged and Eurasian Magpies, and Daurian Jackdaws hopping in a field of Dzo while Olive-backed and Rosy Pipits perched atop the undersized evergreens below. On the plateau, a bevy of falcons greeted us, including Eurasian Kestrel, an unexpected Amur Falcon atop a distant pole, and a sleek Saker Falcon flying overhead with prey spotted by Andie for us all to appreciate. Another famed hunter, Tibetan Grey Shrike, was seen sat on some wires as we sped by, so we screamed to a halt and piled out of the bus for distant views, only to find another showier bird in full song the next morning. Our visit to a high-altitude lake yielded exceptional birding. The surrounding boardwalk allowed us access across bumpy grass plains and reed beds to open water. A Tibetan Lark dropped onto the boardwalk right in front of us where we could inspect its freakishly large size. Black-necked Cranes strolled about in search of prey, while White-rumped and Rufous- necked Snowfinches scurried around feeding their chicks, a scene repeated by an Oriental Skylark feeding its young scruffy chick. We also had a smart Tibetan ‘Citrine’ Wagtail snapping up insects close by. A distant Pallas's Gull was picked out while its more common family members Common and Whiskered Terns, Brown-headed and Black-headed Gulls, were all seen scouring over the water for a morsel. In the reed beds, we found Common Moorhen, Eurasian Coots, and several Brown- cheeked Rails, with one right under the boardwalk. The water was alive with Great Crested Grebes ferrying zebra-patterned young around on their backs that would poke their heads out to feed when a parent brought in food. Large numbers of anatids were present with Greylag Geese and their goslings, Ruddy Shelducks, Gadwalls, Mallards, a distant Eurasian Wigeon, attractive Red-crested and Ferruginous Pochards along with Common Pochards, and Tufted Ducks.

Farther afield in a conifer-lined forested valley, traversing up to the tree line and into snow-covered scree slopes, we targeted the charismatic Sichuan Jay, encountering several calling and darting about the pine boughs. Snowy-cheeked and Giant Laughingthrushes also called these pines home, and in open roadside scrub, we added Pere David's Laughingthrush. Common Pheasants were vocal and conspicuous, and we flushed a pair of Severtzov's Grouse, noting their drumming. Chinese Fulvettas showed well, as did singing Yellow-streaked and Hume's Leaf Warblers. We enjoyed nice views of White- winged Grosbeaks, Himalayan Buzzards, Hodgson's Redstarts, Pink-rumped Rosefinches, a Godlewski's Bunting, and a close Great Spotted Woodpecker. Farther along, in some stunted scrub, we discovered a group of Spectacled Parrotbills, rounding up our parrotbill total for the tour to ten.

Ascending higher, we emerged from the tree-lined slopes into stunted scrub, grasses, and rocky scree. Here, we tracked down a calling Tibetan Snowcock, which paraded down the slope towards us, providing great views with its cocked tail and head thrown back in song. The roadside scrub offered encounters with Spotted Rosefinches and Chinese White-browed Rosefinches, enhancing our Carpodacus count. We also encountered a trio of snow-dusted Blue Eared Pheasant before a sudden blizzard forced us back down the mountain. Exploring the surrounding barren hills rising from the steppe, we scanned stubble scrub for one of our major targets: Przevalski's Pinktail. Once thought to be a rosefinch, bunting, or finch, it is now classified in its own family, making it a particularly desirable target for family listers. We were treated to outstanding views of a stunning male, singing with his bright salmon-pink tail cocked. The rolling hills also hosted Rufous-breasted and Robin Accentors, with the latter providing excellent views. A noisy pair of White-browed Tits were tracked down, and a Siberian Stonechat of the przevalski subspecies was noted. A distant pair of Tibetan Partridges were reluctant to show themselves, but a singing Dusky Warbler was far showier. We were also entertained by a pair of Ground Tits feeding their begging young.

In addition to the avian delights, we spotted a plethora of mammals in the natural splendour of our surroundings, including Himalayan Marmots, adorable Plateau Pikas, fleet-footed Woolly Hares, a Tibetan Fox watching over four cubs, Siberian Roe and Alpine Musk Deer. Even a tiny vole species feeding in the watery grasses around the lake made a brief appearance before burrowing back into its mound of wet grass. Our journey through the Tibet Plateau was a mesmerizing blend of birding and wildlife encounters, etched in the memory of all who experienced it.

Our journey continued north along the edge of the plateau, where we arrived early at a forested pass to spend the morning. We were greeted by the sight of Blood Pheasants strolling among the conifers. Our path led us to a clearing where we heard the song of Blanford's Rosefinch before spotting a group of five perched in the conifer tops but they were rather backlit. Fortunately, we managed to track one down on the opposite side of the clearing, offering us closer views in better light. Chinese White-browed Rosefinches were plentiful, and several groups of Red Crossbills called out as they flew overhead. A charming pair of Grey-headed Bullfinches fed on the ground and a Snowy-cheeked Laughingthrush foraged on the trail before flying across our path. A calling Grey-faced Woodpecker perched high atop another conifer, and we were delighted by the sight of three Siberian Rubythroat singing in nearby scrub as we exited the forest.

We eventually descended from the edge of the Tibet Plateau, welcoming the return of oxygen-rich air as we made our way down to Tang Jia He for a couple of nights. Upon arrival, we were treated to a mammal extravaganza: a large group of Golden Takin grazing on a hillside near the road. We observed over 30 animals, including adults and young, along with two Wild Boar on the upper slope. A cute little Reeve's Muntjak stood waist-deep in the grasses before us and during one of our hikes we encountered a Chinese Serow munching on leaves in the forest, as well as a troop of Tibetan Macaques, adding to our growing list of fascinating mammals. Returning to birds, the lower altitude mixed forest had Alstrom's and Rufous-faced Warblers while also allowing us to compare Claudia's and Kloss's Leaf Warblers. The churning white water of the river revealed a White-crowned Forktail foraging among the boulders, accompanied by Brown Dippers, Crested Kingfishers, and Blue Whistling-thrushes. We also encountered some dazzling Mrs. Gould's Sunbirds and a Slaty Bunting, showing far better than the previous sighting earlier in the trip. Our last morning, the surrounding forest echoed with the thrush-like song of a Zappey's Flycatcher, emanating from the canopy of a tree along the road, where we managed to track it down for views. Walter Zappey, who collected specimens for Harvard University during his travels through China in 1907-08, had the bird named in his honour in 1909. It remained a cryptic piece of the Blue-and-white Flycatcher complex until it was recognized as a Chinese breeding endemic in the 2010s. Sadly the steady drizzle forced us to retreat to the safety of our bus which concluded our time at Tang Jia He. Making our way back south to Chengdu we met for our final meal, bidding farewell to Sichuan and its brilliant birds and mammals, and stunning landscapes. We amassed an impressive 287 species and 19 mammals on our journey through some truly panoramic countryside. The food as always was delicious making this tour a feast for all the senses. Birds of the tour 1. Przewalski's Pinktail 2. Temminck's Tragopan 3. Tibetan Snowcock 4. Wallcreeper 5. Silver Pheasant

Systematic List